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Tuesday 31 May 2011

Beautiful Bologna

The multi talented Italian region of Emilia Romagna has the good fortune to have the richly cultural and gastronomic city of Bologna as its capital.

Not just home to the most celebrated sauce and the best tortelloni, Bolgna can lay claim to some of the best cuisine in Italy.  It also happens to be home to Europe's oldest university, established in 1088, and endowed with a rich variety of history and culture.

You can see why Bologna's nickname is La Rossa.  The lovely medieval streets, arcades, churches and Renaissance palazzi appear as a palette of dusky pinks and burnt umber. 


Bologna's spiritual and geographical heart is the gracious Piazza Maggiore, flanked by some of the city's most important landmarks. Two of Bologna's main thoroughfares converge here; Via Indipendenza and Via Ugo Bassi – the decuman, or main entrance, of the Roman city.


As with most of Italy's old cities, Bologna is best explored on foot. The historic centre has traffic restrictions making it safe to wander and enjoy the authentic cobbled streets.


The main tourist office is in the Palazzo de Podestà, Piazza Maggiore 1 (00 39 051 239 660; bolognaturismo.info which may be amid renovations. Check just behind for the temporary office open 9am-7pm daily.


Must-See Cultural Experiences


The original university site was in the Archiginnasio, at Piazza Galvani 1 now the main city library. Its beautiful arcades are adorned with more than 7,000 hand-painted coats of arms of former students. The first floor is home to the stunning wooden 1637 Anatomical Theatre. archiginnasio.it


In the heart of the university quarter, the Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna, Via Belle Arti 56, houses an impressive collection that includes works by Tintoretto, Titian, Giotto and Carracci pinacotecabologna.it


For a more contemporary gallery, try the MAMbo at Via Don Minzoni whose permanent and temporary exhibitions are displayed in a former bakery mambo-bologna.org


Must-Eat Gastro Experiences


Visit the medieval Mercato di Mezzo in the Quadrilatero district just off the Piazza Maggiore and try the hand-made mortadella sausage from Simoni at Via Drapperie 5   and the local Parmesan-like cheese, sua maesta il nero, at Vecchia Malga Negozi at Via Pescherie Vecchie 


Take a picnic from the market to the Osteria del Sole at Vicolo Ranocchi  osteriadelsole.it which has been open since 1465. No food is served but you can order a glass of wine for €2 and tuck into your spoils at one of several tables dotted around its two rooms.


Book in advance to secure a table at Da Gianni tucked down a small alleyway close to the Piazza Maggiore at Via Clavature 18 (closed Mondays). Sample delicious Bolognese fare such as green lasagne, tortellini in brodo, veal cutlets and a superior Bolognese ragu – eaten only with tagliatelle, not spaghetti.


Join the Sunday morning buzz at the fashionable Caffè Pasticceria Zanarini on the corner of Piazza Galvani and Via Farini. Order a creamy cappuccino for €1.50 plus a delicious pastry such as a crema-filled cornetto or bombolone.


Must-visit Architectural Experiences


The piazza is overlooked by the Palazzo Re Enzo which became the luxurious prison of Enzio, king of Sardinia in 1249. Aim south-west across the square to the adjoining Piazza Maggiore flanked by several of Bologna's most impressive landmarks: the magnificent 13th-century Palazzo del Podestà, the City Halls and the huge Basilica di San Petronio currently undergoing a facelift in time for its 350th anniversary in 2013.


Along its southern edge is the Palazzo dei Banchi built in 1412 to hide the narrow streets of the market behind and named after the banks and moneychangers that once occupied the site. Cross the square and bear right under the Palazzo dei Banchi's portico. This, the Pavaglione, is the finest section of Bologna's 50 kilometres of covered walkways (a Bolognese will never bother taking an umbrella when going out for a walk).


Pass the Piazza Galvani to your right, cross the Via Farini and look up to the ceiling of the portico of the Palazzo della Banca d'Italia with its stunning 19th-century decorations by Gaetano Lodi.


Continue along the upmarket Via Farini until it meets Via Santo Stefano and the Abbey of Santo Stefano – actually a cluster of seven churches and a museum. Head along Via Santo Stefano until you reach the shadow of the Asinelli and Garisenda towers at Piazza di Porta Ravegnana under the loggia of the Palazzo della Mercanzia.


The most extraordinary of the porticoes is the Portico di San Luca, which connects the Porta Saragozza with The Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca which sits atop the Colle della Guardia hill above the city. Reputedly the world's longest stretch of porticoes, this architectural marvel extends for 3.8km and features 666 arches sanlucabo.org


Best of the Rest


The Giardini Margherita, named after the same queen as the pizza, is a verdant sprawl of gardens, open since 1879. Stroll the shady avenues of lime, cedar, sycamore and oak where you can also see two reconstructed huts of an Etruscan settlement  uncovered during the construction of the gardens. Open 6am-midnight, free.


Domenico, who established the order of Dominican Fathers, founded the Basilica di San Domenico in the early 13th century. He was laid to rest here, and his tomb is adorned with two statues later sculpted by Michelangelo. Mass is celebrated on Sundays at 10.30am, noon and 6pm centrosandomenico.it


Start at the north-eastern corner of Piazza del Nettuno and admire the city's most celebrated water feature, the Fountain of Neptune, also known as "The Giant".


Getting There


There are 3 airlines departing from Gatwick:  EasyJet easyjet.com, BA ba.com and Ryanair ryanair.com. Ryanair also departs from Stansted and Edinburgh.


Guglielmo Marconi airport is just 6km north-west of the city centre. A cheap shuttle bus  leaves every 15 minutes, stopping at Bologna's main train station to the north of the old centre and Piazza Maggiore. A taxi will set you back around €20.


For help to plan and book a trip to Bolgna, click here http://www.loveitaly.co.uk/regions.php?id=6